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Due to foggy weather in Aso and seismic activity that closed the crater, I hopped on the train and headed 2 hours further east to Beppu. Luckily, this detour was free as I had a rail pass on hand. Beppu is famous for its "hells". These are natural hot springs that portray images of hell. A package ticket is available to enter all 8 sights for 2000 yen.
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The 8 hells are scattered across 2 main locations. With limited time, I visited the below cluster, which are a 20-minute bus ride away from the train station but within walking distance of each other.
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Umi-Jigoku is a 200m-deep cobalt-blue pond of boiling water created 1200 years ago due to a volcanic eruption. Even these flowers seem to survive in these hot waters.
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Boiling grey mud is a special feature at the Oniishibozu-Jigoku.
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Yama-Jigoku was named after a mountain of mud formed over the years.
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Demons roam around the Kamado-Jigoku.
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Visitors can try the hot spring mineral water, but it is quite hot so let it cool first!
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Shiraike-Jigoku's special feature is its creamy-white water. A Japanese garden has been built around this pond. As it was already near closing, the crowds thinned out and I had a piece of serenity all to myself.
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Eggs boiled from hot spring water are quite popular in Beppu. They didn't taste too different from regular boiled eggs but it was a nice snack after a lot of sightseeing.
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Steam rises from a lot of places throughout this part of town. It was a cool day, so walking near one of these vents is a refreshingly warm experience.
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As night rolls in, head to the covered shopping arcade for some dinner, and see the prostitute touts working discreetly.
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I also tried some nearby restaurants. Not many open late and the city quiets down quite early into the night.
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Beppu is surrounded by mountains, which offer great views of the bay and Oita beyond.
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