
On the eastern part of Hong Kong Island is the quiet residential area of Sai Wan Ho.While the blocks around the tram line are gritty and old, there are plenty of street-level shops where you won't recognize the store name from elsewhere in the city. There are chains but you still have plenty of independent shops to choose from. It is not touristy at all around here so you will get to enjoy a slice of local life. Tai On Building is a local foodie destination and worth making the trip to this area just for it. It dates from the late 1960s and towered above everyone else at the time right along the waterfront. The huge 28-storey residential building has 1884 units that sits on top of a shopping mall, with many small restaurants that have long lines. The waterfront has since shifted a few blocks beyond as more land was reclaimed from the sea.
The density gets taller as I walk to the waterfront along the new lands, although there are pockets of redevelopment within the older parts. Behind the tram line, the streets slope up quickly to mainly public housing blocks built in the 1990s. Set back from main streets, it's actually quite serene yet still accessible.
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